A dryer that powers on and hums — you hear the motor — but the drum just sits there almost always has a break somewhere in the drive path. The most common cause is a snapped belt, and the fixes are affordable, common parts. Here's the order a tech works it to find which one.
The belt wraps the drum and the motor pulley to spin it. When it snaps or slips off, the motor runs but the drum doesn't move — often the tell is the drum spins freely by hand with no resistance.
Check it: Reach in and try to turn the drum by hand — if it spins with almost no resistance, the belt is broken. It's an inexpensive, common part a tech replaces (a good time to do the idler and rollers too).
The idler keeps tension on the belt. When its bearing wears out or seizes, the belt slips or the drum binds — sometimes with a squeal before it stops turning.
Check it: Usually replaced along with the belt since a tech is already in there. A squealing-then-stopping drum points here.
The drum rides on support rollers (and a rear bearing). If one seizes, the drum can't turn even with a good belt, and the motor strains or hums.
Check it: A tech checks whether the drum turns freely; a seized roller or worn rear bearing gets replaced. Affordable common parts.
Less often, the drive motor fails (it may hum but not turn), or something (a coin, a lost sock) is jammed between the drum and the bulkhead and blocks it.
Check it: A tech checks for a jam first, then tests the motor if the belt, idler, and rollers are all good.
Almost always repair — a belt, idler, and rollers are inexpensive, common parts with flat labor, far below a new dryer. Only a failed drive motor on an older dryer is worth weighing against replacement, and even that's often fixable.
In Middle Tennessee or the Baton Rouge area? We'll come to you, same-day. Anywhere else in the U.S.? Send a 10-second video, a real technician tells you exactly what's wrong for $50 (credited toward the repair), and we ship you the exact part. 24/7 — text, call, or upload anytime.
Nearly always a broken drive belt — the motor runs but nothing spins the drum. A quick test: try turning the drum by hand; if it spins with no resistance, the belt snapped. Worn idler pulley or seized drum rollers are the next causes. All are affordable, common parts.
Open the door and try to rotate the drum by hand. A good belt gives real resistance; a broken belt lets the drum spin almost freely. If the motor hums when you start it but the drum doesn't move, the belt is the first thing to check.
Usually yes — a belt/idler/roller repair is inexpensive and common, well below a new dryer. Your $50 Quick Check credits toward the repair so you know the cost first.