When an LG refrigerator stops cooling and BOTH the fridge and freezer are warm, the number-one suspect is the linear (inverter) compressor. LG's linear compressors from roughly 2014–2019 had a well-documented failure rate that led to a class-action settlement — and the good news is they carry a 10-year compressor warranty, so the part is often covered.
The known LG issue: LG linear-compressor fridges (2014–2019) are the single most-searched "not cooling" complaint in the country. Before paying for a compressor, verify warranty coverage — LG covers the linear compressor for 10 years and settled a class action over these failures.
What's actually different about a LG
Linear/inverter compressor failure Pro
Both compartments warm, compressor not running (no gentle hum) or clicking on and off = the linear compressor or its inverter control board. This is THE common LG failure.
What you can check: Check your model/serial against the LG settlement and warranty — the compressor is often covered 10 years. Diagnosis and replacement are a technician job.
Dirty condenser coils / condenser fan Easy
Coils packed with dust make the compressor overheat and cut out.
What you can check: Unplug, pull the fridge out, vacuum the condenser coils at the bottom/back. Free and safe.
Evaporator fan or defrost Pro
If only the fridge is warm and the freezer is fine, it's more likely the evap fan or defrost than the compressor.
What you can check: Listen for the evap fan behind the freezer panel.
LG refrigerator fault codes
No user code
LG fridges rarely show a cooling fault code to the user; diagnosis is by symptom + a technician's test mode
Try this first: A power-cycle (unplug 30 seconds, plug back in) clears a stuck inverter board and is worth trying first. If both sides are warm again within hours, suspect the compressor.
Get the exact LG part — shipped to your door
With the $50 Quick Check, send a short video and a photo of your LG refrigerator's model number. A real technician confirms the diagnosis and we ship you the exact part with instructions — the $50 is credited toward it. Or we walk you through the fix free.
A refrigerator that's running but not getting cold is stressful — you're watching food go warm. Before you assume the worst (an expensive compressor), know that most "not cooling" calls we get turn out to be an affordable fix: airflow, a fan, or the defrost system. Here's how we work through it, and what you can safely check right now.
Safety first: Unplug the refrigerator before cleaning coils or checking fans. Sealed-system and compressor work requires a licensed technician — never attempt it yourself.
Dirty condenser coils Easy
Coils caked in dust and pet hair can't release heat, so the fridge runs constantly and still won't cool. This is the most common and most preventable cause.
What you can check: Unplug the fridge, find the coils (behind the kick plate or on the back), and vacuum them clean.
Evaporator fan motor Pro
This fan moves cold air from the freezer coils into the fridge compartment. If it fails, the freezer may stay cold-ish while the fridge section warms up.
What you can check: Listen: open the freezer and press the door switch — you should hear the fan. Silence points here. Replacement is a technician repair.
Defrost system failure Pro
Frost builds on the evaporator coils and blocks airflow when the defrost heater, thermostat, or timer/board fails. Classic sign: freezer works, fridge doesn't, and you see frost buildup.
What you can check: If you see heavy frost on the back freezer wall, that's the clue. The repair is a technician job.
Condenser fan motor Pro
On coil-in-back-cabinet models, this fan cools the compressor and coils. If it stops, the system overheats and cooling drops.
What you can check: Not a safe DIY check. Diagnosed by a technician.
Start relay / compressor Pro
The compressor is the heart of the system. A failed start relay (cheap) can stop it from running; a failed compressor (expensive) is the rare worst case.
What you can check: Not DIY. A technician confirms whether it's the affordable relay or the compressor itself.
Overpacked or blocked vents Easy
Blocking the interior air vents with food stops cold air from circulating.
What you can check: Make sure nothing is jammed against the vents inside the fridge and freezer.
Is it worth repairing?
Coils, fans, start relays, and defrost parts are all affordable and worth fixing. The one expensive scenario is a failed compressor or a sealed-system leak — and that's exactly the situation where our honest repair-vs-replace math matters most, so you don't sink money into a fridge that isn't worth it. We tell you straight.
Frequently asked questions
Why is my LG refrigerator not cooling?
When an LG refrigerator stops cooling and BOTH the fridge and freezer are warm, the number-one suspect is the linear (inverter) compressor. LG's linear compressors from roughly 2014–2019 had a well-documented failure rate that led to a class-action settlement — and the good news is they carry a 10-year compressor warranty, so the part is often covered.
Is there a known issue with LG refrigerators not cooling?
LG linear-compressor fridges (2014–2019) are the single most-searched "not cooling" complaint in the country. Before paying for a compressor, verify warranty coverage — LG covers the linear compressor for 10 years and settled a class action over these failures.
Why is my fridge running but not cold?
Running-but-warm usually means airflow or a fan, not the compressor. The most common causes are dirty condenser coils, a failed evaporator fan, or a defrost-system problem building frost on the coils. Start by vacuuming the coils.
What can I check before calling a refrigerator repair tech?
Safely: vacuum the condenser coils, make sure the interior vents aren't blocked by food, listen for the evaporator fan when you press the freezer door switch, and look for heavy frost on the back freezer wall.
Is it worth repairing a refrigerator that won't cool?
Most causes — coils, fans, relays, defrost parts — are affordable and worth fixing. The exception is a failed compressor or sealed-system leak; for those we give you honest repair-vs-replace numbers before you spend a dime.