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Symptom Diagnostic
Stove Burner Not WorkingHere's What's Actually Wrong
Save the guesswork. A real technician reviews your model number and a short video, then builds a Technician Decision Report with four honest options and real pricing. The $50 Quick Check fee becomes credit toward your repair if you proceed.
A single electric burner that won't heat is almost always a failed element, a corroded receptacle (where the element plugs in), or a failed infinite switch (the knob's control). Swapping elements between burners is the fastest test — if the cold burner works in another spot, it's the element. If a known-good element doesn't work in the bad spot, it's the receptacle or switch.
What's Actually Happening
The Most Common Causes
These are the failure modes our technicians see most often on this symptom — listed in rough order of frequency. We don't publish step-by-step repair instructions for liability reasons, but the diagnostic process below identifies which one applies to your machine before any parts get swapped.
Failed heating element
Coil burns through or develops a hot spot. Visible damage usually. Swap test confirms quickly.
Corroded element receptacle
The socket where the element plugs in. Years of heating and cooling corrode the contacts. Replacement restores connection.
Failed infinite switch
The control knob's internal switch. Won't engage the element at all, or engages on only some settings.
Broken element terminal block
On some models the element wires plug into a terminal block. Block corrodes or burns.
Wiring issue at the back of the range
Less common but real on older units. Wire connection at the rear panel degrades.
Is It Worth Fixing?
The Honest Answer
Yes — every cause. Element $150–$250. Receptacle $200–$300. Switch $250–$350. No scenario where a single burner failure makes a stove not worth fixing. Parts availability and labor complexity matter more than the age of the machine. A well-built ten-year-old appliance with an available part is often worth fixing twice. A newer unit with a discontinued board is the harder call. Our techs lay both options out side-by-side — repair cost vs. replacement cost — and let you decide. Try the replacement calculator for a quick framing, but every situation is different.
How the TDR Works
The 4-Option Technician Decision Report
After your $50 Quick Check (or $100 in-home diagnostic), a real technician — not a chatbot — reviews your model, video, and symptoms. They build a Technician Decision Report with four honest options:
Option 1
OEM Part Only
We source the exact OEM part and ship directly to you. You install. Best for confident DIYers who want guaranteed-fit parts.
Option 2
Amazon Equivalent Part Only
We source a verified compatible part at a lower price and ship directly. You install. Cost-effective when fit is straightforward.
Option 3
OEM Part + Labor
We source the OEM part, ship it, and our technician installs it. Best when fit is critical or labor access is complex.
Option 4
Equivalent Part + Labor
We source an equivalent part, ship it, and install it. Balances cost and convenience.
Important if you choose labor: do not start the job yourself. Once an appliance has been opened or partially worked on, our technician may need to charge additional labor — or may decline to take over the repair.
You pick which option works for you. No surprises, no hidden costs. We don't share specific part numbers — we source the parts ourselves and ship them directly to your door, so you never have to hunt for the right SKU.
Pricing
Real Numbers, No Mystery
Most repairs for this symptom land in the range below. The diagnostic confirms exactly which job it is before any quote — and the diagnostic fee credits toward your repair labor.
Quick Check (chat + tech review)$50
In-Home Diagnostic$100
Most dryer repairs$150-$300
Most washer repairs$200-$350
Most refrigerator repairs$200-$600
Sealed-system & specialtystarting at $200
Your diagnostic fee is never wasted. Every dollar you spend on the Quick Check ($50) or in-home diagnostic ($100) goes directly toward your repair labor if you decide to move forward. You're not paying for a diagnosis AND a repair — you're paying for a diagnosis that becomes a credit toward your repair. No double paying, ever.
FAQ
People Also Ask
Why is one of my stove burners not working?
Most likely the element itself. Second most likely the receptacle (socket). Third most likely the infinite switch. The swap test isolates which in 60 seconds.
How do I test a stove element?
Swap the suspect element with a known-good element from another burner of the same size. If the bad burner now works, the original element was bad. If it still doesn't work, the issue is downstream (receptacle, switch, wiring).
How much does it cost to fix one stove burner?
$150–$350 typical, depending on which part. Element only is the cheap end; switch replacement is the upper end.
Can I keep using a stove with one burner out?
Yes — the other burners are unaffected. But get it diagnosed; receptacle issues sometimes cascade if the underlying cause is heat damage.
Do I have to pay the diagnostic fee AND the repair cost?
No. Diagnostic fees apply directly to repair labor. You pay once.
Related Symptoms
Other Things That Could Be Wrong
Where We Service
Middle TN + Louisiana
Whether you're in Nashville or Hammond, the diagnostic process is the same. We service Middle Tennessee and Louisiana with six experienced technicians.
Outside the cities listed? Chat with Ant — we'll confirm coverage before you pay anything.
Get Started
Chat with Ant — Get a Real Answer Today
Chat with Ant — tell us what's wrong, share a quick video and your model number photo, and a real technician will build your Technician Decision Report. No hold music, no guessing, no commitment until you see your options.