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Symptom Diagnostic
Gas Range Not LightingHere's What's Actually Wrong
Save the guesswork. A real technician reviews your model number and a short video, then builds a Technician Decision Report with four honest options and real pricing. The $50 Quick Check fee becomes credit toward your repair if you proceed.
A gas range burner that clicks but won't light is usually a wet or misaligned burner cap, a clogged burner port, or a weak spark electrode. If there's no click at all, the spark module or its wiring has failed. Most repairs are $150–$300.
What's Actually Happening
The Most Common Causes
These are the failure modes our technicians see most often on this symptom — listed in rough order of frequency. We don't publish step-by-step repair instructions for liability reasons, but the diagnostic process below identifies which one applies to your machine before any parts get swapped.
Wet or misaligned burner cap
Water from cleaning or spillage interferes with the spark. Or the cap isn't seated properly. Free fix once identified.
Clogged burner port
Food debris blocks the gas channel. Gas can't reach the spark. Cleaning the port restores function.
Failed spark electrode
The igniter pin itself wears out or corrodes. Replacement is a moderate repair.
Spark module failure
The control box that generates the spark voltage. When it fails, no burner clicks. $250–$400 to replace.
Gas supply or safety valve issue
Less common but real — gas isn't reaching the burner. Always check the supply first.
Is It Worth Fixing?
The Honest Answer
Yes — every cause. $150–$300 for cleaning and electrode work. $250–$400 for spark module replacement. Parts availability and labor complexity matter more than the age of the machine. A well-built ten-year-old appliance with an available part is often worth fixing twice. A newer unit with a discontinued board is the harder call. Our techs lay both options out side-by-side — repair cost vs. replacement cost — and let you decide. Try the replacement calculator for a quick framing, but every situation is different.
How the TDR Works
The 4-Option Technician Decision Report
After your $50 Quick Check (or $100 in-home diagnostic), a real technician — not a chatbot — reviews your model, video, and symptoms. They build a Technician Decision Report with four honest options:
Option 1
OEM Part Only
We source the exact OEM part and ship directly to you. You install. Best for confident DIYers who want guaranteed-fit parts.
Option 2
Amazon Equivalent Part Only
We source a verified compatible part at a lower price and ship directly. You install. Cost-effective when fit is straightforward.
Option 3
OEM Part + Labor
We source the OEM part, ship it, and our technician installs it. Best when fit is critical or labor access is complex.
Option 4
Equivalent Part + Labor
We source an equivalent part, ship it, and install it. Balances cost and convenience.
Important if you choose labor: do not start the job yourself. Once an appliance has been opened or partially worked on, our technician may need to charge additional labor — or may decline to take over the repair.
You pick which option works for you. No surprises, no hidden costs. We don't share specific part numbers — we source the parts ourselves and ship them directly to your door, so you never have to hunt for the right SKU.
Pricing
Real Numbers, No Mystery
Most repairs for this symptom land in the range below. The diagnostic confirms exactly which job it is before any quote — and the diagnostic fee credits toward your repair labor.
Quick Check (chat + tech review)$50
In-Home Diagnostic$100
Most dryer repairs$150-$300
Most washer repairs$200-$350
Most refrigerator repairs$200-$600
Sealed-system & specialtystarting at $200
Your diagnostic fee is never wasted. Every dollar you spend on the Quick Check ($50) or in-home diagnostic ($100) goes directly toward your repair labor if you decide to move forward. You're not paying for a diagnosis AND a repair — you're paying for a diagnosis that becomes a credit toward your repair. No double paying, ever.
FAQ
People Also Ask
Why is my gas burner clicking but not lighting?
Wet or misaligned burner cap, clogged port, or weak electrode. Dry the cap, clean around the burner, and try again. If it still won't light, you've narrowed it to electrode or gas supply.
Can I light my gas burner with a match?
Yes — most gas ranges can be lit with a match if the electric igniter fails. Use long fireplace matches and hold the flame to the burner while turning the knob. If it lights, the electrode is the failure point.
How much does it cost to fix a gas range igniter?
$150–$300 for electrode replacement on a single burner. $250–$400 for full spark module replacement if multiple burners are affected.
Is it safe to use a gas range with a clicking igniter?
Generally yes — but constant clicking is a sign something needs attention. Diagnostic confirms whether the issue is cleanup or a real failure.
Do I have to pay the diagnostic fee AND the repair cost?
No. Diagnostic fees apply directly to repair labor. You pay once.
Related Symptoms
Other Things That Could Be Wrong
Where We Service
Middle TN + Louisiana
Whether you're in Nashville or Hammond, the diagnostic process is the same. We service Middle Tennessee and Louisiana with six experienced technicians.
Outside the cities listed? Chat with Ant — we'll confirm coverage before you pay anything.
Get Started
Chat with Ant — Get a Real Answer Today
Chat with Ant — tell us what's wrong, share a quick video and your model number photo, and a real technician will build your Technician Decision Report. No hold music, no guessing, no commitment until you see your options.