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Oven & Range Repair · Middle TN + LA

Oven & Range RepairHonest, Technician-Led Repair

Gas or electric, oven or cooktop — most failures trace to an affordable, available part: a bake or broil element, igniter, oven sensor, surface element, or switch. Gas appliances we diagnose carefully and safely. We don't replace ranges that are worth fixing.

Oven not heating? On electric, it's usually the bake element or oven sensor; on gas, it's most often a weak igniter. Burner won't light or surface element won't heat? Think igniter, switch, or element. Send a quick video and your model number through Ant and a real technician will tell you exactly which one — safely, before any part is ordered.

Oven & Range Symptoms

Pick the symptom that matches what your oven, stove, or range is doing. Each page walks through the most common causes, honest pricing, and the 4-option Technician Decision Report.

What Usually Goes Wrong

🔥 Gas oven won't heat / booms or roars when lighting

A gas oven that won't heat, makes a loud boom or roar when it lights, or smells like gas before it catches has a weak oven igniter (glow bar) — it draws current but no longer gets hot enough to open the safety valve quickly, so gas pools then lights late. An easy, affordable fix: replace the igniter. All gas ranges.

Bake / broil element (electric)

A burned-out or blistered element is the #1 electric-oven failure — it won't heat or won't hold temperature. An affordable, fast repair on most models.

Oven igniter (gas)

A weak igniter glows but no longer draws enough current to open the gas valve, so the oven never lights. The most common gas-oven no-heat cause.

Oven temperature sensor

A drifting sensor makes the oven run hot, cold, or shut off mid-bake. Cheap part, big impact on results.

Surface element & switch

A dead cooktop burner is usually the element itself or the infinite switch that feeds it. On glass tops, a cracked surface is the harder call.

Control board & safety valve

Dead displays, stuck cycles, and keypad faults point to the control board; a gas oven that won't stay lit can be the safety valve.

Ovens & Ranges We Repair

We work on every major brand — gas, electric, and induction. Brand-specific pages cover the common failure patterns and parts availability for each platform.

Where's My Model Number?

A real technician needs your model number to nail the diagnosis and bring the right part. Here's where it hides — snap a photo when you find it.

Need the Part? We'll Find It.

Tell us your model and what's wrong — we identify the exact part, confirm it fits, and ship it to your door or install it. No hunting for part numbers; that's our job.

The 4-Option Decision Report

Every oven and range repair starts with a real technician reviewing your model and symptoms. You get a Technician Decision Report with four options and real pricing — pick what works for you.

Option 1
OEM Part Only
We source the exact OEM part and ship directly to you. You install. Best for confident DIYers who want guaranteed-fit parts.
Option 2
Amazon Equivalent Part Only
We source a verified compatible part at a lower price and ship directly. You install. Cost-effective when fit is straightforward.
Option 3
OEM Part + Labor
We source the OEM part, ship it, and our technician installs it. Best when fit is critical or it's a gas repair.
Option 4
Equivalent Part + Labor
We source an equivalent part, ship it, and install it. Balances cost and convenience.
Gas appliances: if you smell gas, leave it off and call us. And if you choose labor, don't start the job yourself — once a unit has been opened, our technician may need to charge additional labor or decline to take over the repair.

What Will This Cost?

Pick the likely repair to see our flat labor price next to what most shops charge all-in. The exact part price comes after a quick diagnosis — you'll see the real number.

Real Numbers, No Mystery

Quick Check (chat + tech review)$50
In-Home Diagnostic$100
Bake element / sensor / switch$150-$280
Igniter / safety valve (gas)$180-$340
Control board$250-$450
Most oven & range repairs$150-$400
Your diagnostic fee is never wasted. Every dollar you spend on the Quick Check ($50) or in-home diagnostic ($100) goes directly toward your repair labor if you decide to move forward. You're not paying for a diagnosis AND a repair — you're paying for a diagnosis that becomes a credit toward your repair. No double paying, ever.

What Oven & Range Repairs Actually Cost

We quote a flat labor price by the job — then the exact part at our real cost plus a fair margin. No mystery "all-in" number with the markup buried inside. Here's our flat labor next to what the average shop charges all-in (parts and labor bundled together) for the same job, from 2025–26 national pricing data.

RepairOur flat laborAvg shop, all-in
Bake / broil element$130~$250
Surface burner / element / switch$130~$225
Oven igniter$130~$235
Control / main board$205~$375

Add the part at our cost ÷ markup (we show you the real number — most shops never will), and your $50 Quick Check credits straight to the repair. Even all-in, we come in well under the national average on nearly every job — because that "average" has the markup hidden inside it.

Our Philosophy on Repair vs. Replace

Ranges are usually worth repairing. Elements, igniters, sensors, and switches are affordable and available, and the labor is straightforward on most platforms. The harder call is a failed control board on a high-end unit or a cracked glass cooktop. The replacement calculator gives you a quick framing, and our technicians give you the real numbers on your specific machine — every situation is different.

People Also Ask

How much does oven or range repair cost?
Most oven and range repairs land in the $150–$400 range. A bake or broil element is on the lower end; igniters, control boards, and induction elements run higher. Your $50 Quick Check or $100 in-home diagnostic credits directly toward the repair.
Why is my oven not heating?
On an electric oven, a failed bake element or oven sensor is the usual cause. On a gas oven, it's most often a weak igniter that no longer draws enough current to open the gas valve. A technician confirms which before any part is ordered.
Why won't my gas burner or range light?
Usually a dirty or cracked igniter, a clogged burner port, or a wiring/switch fault. Clicking but no flame typically points to the igniter or moisture in the burner cap. We diagnose it safely rather than guessing on a gas appliance.
Is it worth repairing an oven or range?
Usually yes — elements, igniters, sensors, and switches are affordable, available parts. The harder call is a failed control board or a cracked glass cooktop. Our technicians give you honest repair-vs-replace numbers for your specific model.
What oven and range brands do you repair?
All major brands — Whirlpool, GE, Samsung, LG, Maytag, Frigidaire, KitchenAid, Kenmore, Bosch, Amana, and more — gas, electric, and induction.

One Team, Every Appliance

Same honest 4-option Technician Decision Report, same technicians, across every major appliance in your home.

Chat with Ant — Get a Real Answer Today

Chat with Ant — tell us what's wrong, share a quick video and your model number photo, and a real technician will build your Technician Decision Report. No hold music, no guessing, no commitment until you see your options.

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🐜 Talk to the Appliance AI → honest answer in hours, $50 Quick Check